Malta Madness

International Firework Festival

Malta seems to have a way of sucking you in and keeping you. We planned to stay here a week and now 12 days later we might be on the verge of leaving, weather dependant of course, as always.

Someone put bubbles in the fountain

After a swim in the pool looking over the harbour

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

We would have left yesterday but a parcel I needed arrived just after we had left Malta and headed off to Gozo so we have had to come back and get it. It’s a test I need to do so couldn’t be left behind.

Gozo

Street in Valetta

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Malta has been a mad mix of sights and experiences.

Our French friends caught up with us again and we all went on moorings at Sandy Marina; no internet or electricity which was initially a bit frustrating but then we settled into it and had a bit of a holiday.

Medina town

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

So Malta:

  • Fireworks galore
  • Haircuts for Anya and me
  • Resting and relaxing
  • Stocking up at the supermarket; marmite, mint sauce, pickled onions, box of chocolates, oatcakes, cheddar and greek yogurt which we are all in love with and missing.
  • Meeting up with all our French friends from Rhodes
  • Dinner with another friend who lives here
  • Finding nearly everything we needed in the health food shop hurrah hurrah, who’d have ever thought I could get excited about hemp protein powder, what has happened to me!?
  • Visiting ancient old sites, those Knights built a lot of big defensive walls here.
  • Bouncing around on Sliema harbour wall and having to cut the rope to get off.
  • Warhammer shop for Rufus
  • Clothes and shoe shopping for Anya; high heels at last, she can’t believe her luck.
  • Books, we spent nearly €200, and Anya has read all hers already!
  • Lots of walking, lots, and water taxis.
  • Swimming in beautiful blue sea in Gozo
  • Fight about putting up and taking down the cruising shoot. Ashley says he’s never going to do it again!
  • Trying to fix the dingy holes.
  • Oh and a night out at the theatre

 

 

 

 

 

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Posted in Malta | Leave a comment

We’ve made it to Malta

Well, bed rest and free wifi have their advantages, I can catch up on blog posts, before I nap.

Despite all the odds and nearly two months later than planned we’ve actually berthed in Malta. I felt relieved and quite emotional as we entered the Grand Harbour.

Approaching the Grand Harbour Entrance

The trip here was fairly uneventful, though there are some mad swells between Sicily and Malta, they seem to come from several directions all at once making life afloat a little uncomfortable.

The wind was at our back most of the way and strong enough to force us to reef, but glorious as we could turn off the engine, hurrah!

We saw lots of ships passing by carrying their cargo around the seas and had to change direction for the one below as he steamed on completely unaware of our presence, despite our new radar reflector.

Huge Libyan cargo ship passing by

Here in Malta the sun is shining and it’s hot; feels like a holiday sort of place, so that’s what we plan to do, chillax and enjoy. As luck would have it we’ve landed here just when the International Fireworks Festival is on, how lucky is that!

 

 

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Posted in Mairi, Malta | 4 Comments

Syracuse, Soakings and Sickness.

The last run before dry land!

In Syracuse marina a trip to the loo and showers, in fact to get off the pontoons at all, proved a hazardous affair.

They suffered 3 big storms here in the winter, the last one broke up some of the pontoons and actually sunk two boats. Helge, who we met in Montenegro was wintering here so he filled us in on the awful details. He couldn’t leave his boat for three days because it was so bad, the pontoons were flexing up and down like a roller coaster, which explains all the cracked and broken concrete.

Walking the plank

Some pontoons were out of service and ours was joined to another by two wooden planks, a wobbling walkway to the outer pontoon where we often had to run the gauntlet of the breaking waves to make it to the loo. We all got wet feet but poor Ashley got soaked on one occasion. There were strong winds forecast for the week we meaning this was a common occurrence during our visit there.

After a couple of days of rest the rest of the crew were revived and ready to explore the city, I unfortunately had a bad dose of delayed fatigue a common ME/CFS complaint and had to take to my bed for a few days more.

Strawberries in the market

This coincided with my dead Dad’s birthday and the news that one of our lovely neighbours had died. All this sent me into what I suppose is called a relapse. It’s awful feeling so unwell, so limited, but coupled with grief it sent me for six. I did not have a good few days and I’m sorry to say the rest of the crew got it in the neck a few times. It’s so hard feeling ill on the boat, and even more so when they can all go off and I have to stay and rest and stare at the inside of the boat yet again.

After a day of crying and feeling very sorry for myself I gathered in again and set about doing what I know can help, lots of rest, relaxation tapes, sleep, mediation, calling good friends for support, eating well and drinking lots of water.

Houses of Syracuse

Most of the time I manage fairly well, limited, I realise but I’ve found a way to cope afloat. But these extra stresses and strains are still too much and send me over the edge. My healing journey is about learning to calm my system down so it can heal, about reducing stress, learning to relax more and to let go and allow. I also have to repair the physical damage in my body with diet, nutrition, supplementation and other support.

The delayed fatigue is followed by body pain, a sort of aching all over and discomfort in my joints and bones. Pulling ropes has strained my shoulder and I’ve done something to my knee too, argh!  My brain doesn’t work properly which the children find very frustrating as I can’t remember simple things sometimes. I think, they think, I’m a bit stupid!

Attached to our laundry

Yes I’m having a bit of a moan, but it is also to inform, this is some of our reality afloat. When I’m like this I can’t go far from the boat, Ashley and the kids have to step up and fill the gaps. They shopped, did washing, cooking and cleaning and Ashley made sure we were topped up with diesel and finally got a radar reflector. I managed to repair a rip in our hood and finally sew ties on the cockpit tent so not all was lost.

So I didn’t see as much of Syracuse as I would have liked, but I got to the wonderful market and had a little wander round the old town where I found the puppet theatre, which Ashley and I went to. An hour before we left I slipped in a visit to the Duomo. This huge church incorporates a 5th century temple to Athena you can see the ancient columns on the outside and inside, it is amazing.

Columns inside the Doumo

Ashley also hired a car and on one afternoon I went with them to Noto, which was well worth it, and to a lovely nature reserve.

Lemon groves

Balcony in Noto

Ashley and Rufus at the nature reserve

 

 

 

 

 

The rest of our time here was spent in the company of Helge, another cruiser we met called Peter and his partner over from England called Rosie. Ashley and the kids also had a full day out and about in the car, went for aperitifs and snacks to a French boat, visited the catacombs and the church of the crying Madonna, she cried for 5 days in 1953, a miracle.

Finally a break in the weather arrived and we decided we actually might be able to get to Malta. I just couldn’t face another huge journey and hoped we’d do it in stages but unbeknown to me the rest of the crew had a powwow and decided we should go over night. Their conclusion was that they would share the night watches allowing me to rest and hopefully sleep more.

Leaving Syracuse, Monday tea-time

What a nice family I have.

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Posted in Italy, M.E. Afloat, Mairi | Leave a comment

Longest Trip Yet

69 hours, 301 nautical miles, average speed 4.36 knots

Accountant Ashley has a spreadsheet for all this as well as miles since last oil change and miles per litre!

Rounding the north end of Cephalonia we met the tail end of the swell from the day before, a little uncomfortable and looking back on it now, a doddle compared to what would come.

The first day and night passed fairly uneventfully, a little sun, a shower or two, light winds in the right direction. Oh and a little swallow visited twice, both times flying inside the boat, becoming confused and then flying out again.

The second day out we were doing well, so well in fact that we decided to head for Malta instead of Sicily, it really seemed possible.

The wind stayed just of our starboard bow so with full sail we were flying along at 5 knots, lovely. Dolphins visited on several occasions, a couple of boats passed and life afloat went smoothly UNTIL…………

When I came on watch at 6am-ish on the third morning Ashley wondered about reefing in. The wind had increased quite a lot and we were heeled over.

After a little debate we decided to stay as we were and make the most of it; mistake!

No sooner had Ashley nodded off than the wind increased, Otto (autopilot) struggled and cut out a few times due to weather helm…..he couldn’t cope. I decided to reef down, clipped on and made my way forward. After wrestling around with both foresail and main for the next half hour, sweating buckets, who needs a gym, I finally got everything running smoothly and most importantly Otto happy again, thank goodness,

Later that morning we were visited by about 8 little dolphins playing in the waves and surfing around the boat. Rufus and Anya got up to see and I went forward to take photos where my poor camera and I got slapped by a wave, much to the amusement of the twin teens. hope my camera survives the dousing.

As the day wore on the wind increased and our new wind speed indicator topped 32 knots at one point, that’s Force 7, more than enough for us. The swell had increased a lot by then and things were getting pretty uncomfortable.

On Ashley’s watch he was forced to lay-off which would mean tacking to Malta.

What to do? We really wanted to go to Malta, BUT tacking into a Force 7 is horrible and almost impossible in a wee boat like Rowan. Our speed had dropped dramatically and we had the engine on to help.

By late evening we decided that, despite our huge desire and sterling effort Mother Nature had other plans and we had to concede and let the Malta idea go for now. Boo hoo!

Heavy reefing

Where could we go though? The nearest port sounded too difficult to enter at night plus not somewhere we wanted to get stuck plus we couldn’t make it on one tack so Syracuse was the answer.

It’s no joke making that sort of decision late at night in big seas and strong winds but even more so because it would take six more hours to get there!

There was nothing for it though so off we headed. By this time we were heavily reefed down and getting pretty wet, all the leaks showing themselves again, yuck.

We knew we had made a good decision when we saw lightening flashing through clouds right where we would have been going.

By now the wind was a steady Force 7 gusting more than that, at deck level. Bigger boats may have kept going but for us out in such an open sea seeking safety was the best option.  Later that day we discovered that the ferries to Malta had been cancelled because of the bad weather; if they couldn’t go?!

Steaming light reflecting on the sea at night

4.30am saw us tied up safely in Marina Yachting in Syracuse, and very, very glad of it too. Manoeuvring into the berth had been a little challenging and I actually began to shake; tiredness and adrenaline taking their toll. It took me three attempts to throw the rope to the guy on the pontoon while Ashley held us onto the boat next door and then sorted out our bow lines.

I have never been so glad to get to bed in all my life!

Rufus and Anya, by the way slept through the whole thing, oh to be a teen again.

 

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Posted in Greece, Mairi | 6 Comments

Last port in Greece – Fiskardo

Fiskardo, one of the nicest places we’ve been, well there are so many, but this ranks high.

Looking back towards the village

The village is beautiful and quiet, slowly unfurling itself from its winter slumbers. One cafe, one bar, one restaurant and one shop open, others starting to stir but not quite awake yet.

A little drama unfolded when force 8 winds were forecast. A  glass bottom boat ( bound for Argostoli but pulling into Fiskardo for shelter) was told to move from where they were because it would be dangerous in the winds to come. They looked around and decided next to us would be ideal!

 

We were tied along side on the end of a stone pier and obligingly edged up a little. We ended up straddled the pier and wooden pontoon attached to it causing us some problems as they weren’t entirely lined up and we had to fend off a corner.

View from a port-hole

As they reversed this great steel boat into the small space we watched with trepidation, one wrong move and we would have been crushed.  They spent an inordinate amount of time tying themselves up very, very close, almost touching our stern and then shoved off for the night.

We then moved along a bit more which involved lots more ropes and super springing but it felt a lot safer.

The said wind didn’t materialise in the harbour but the surge from the swell outside did. It was a bit disconcerting because of the corner we were on where yet again our boarding ladder came into it’s own. Actually we haven’t ever used it to board Rowan but it has been a godsend to use outside fenders to protect them from lots of rough harbour walls.

Rufus dive bombing of the pontoon

Fiskardo also answered a prayer. On the Cruising Associations website/forum I had put out a plea for any other boats with children abroad. None it seems near by, BUT in came a yacht bearing British children. Dan, Jack and Izzy 15, 12, and 10 years old, perfect. Rufus and Anya had such a lovely day and half running around the village, playing games and swimming off the pontoon. It was delightful to see them enjoying the company of other children, and Ashley and I had the pleasure of the company of Helen and Mike too.

They were nearing the end of their Easter holidays so we were very pleased that our paths crossed.

Sailings great, you meet such interesting people.

AND THEN THE TIME HAD COME; a fair weather forecast for Italy/Sicily.

We did a little stock up at the shop and had a last meal out in Greece at the one restaurant, where we also filled up the water containers. Ashley had a chat with the kitchen porters, two blokes from Bangladesh, amazing who you end up meeting and where!

I was feeling very MEy and tired so instead of leaving at 4am as planned we left at 7am the next morning bound for somewhere that’s not Greece, all weather dependent of course.

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Posted in Greece, Mairi | 2 Comments

So we visit Cephalonia afterall.

We left Agis Nikolias in sunshine and a flat calm heading off to see the caves, a blue grotto to rival Capri apparently and Wreck Bay.

The caves and adjacent rock formations were fantastic but later the wind came up ,on our nose forcing us to abandon Wreck Bay plans and head straight for Argostoli in Cephalonia.

 

 

 

Here we tied up on another bumpy town quay behind Argo, near Leonard’s Cafe. Ashley’s knee caused him so much pain that he barely went ashore for the next few days, except each afternoon when he hobbled to Leonardo’s to do some work on the internet. Much to our delight he also charged up everything, phones, computers, Ipod’s and DVD player, since there was no electricity here.

 

Leonardo was extremely nice and helpful and could arrange almost anything for yachties. He sorted out gas for us, gave us ice, let us charge things every day, made us great hot chocolates and he’s helped Argo order a new water tank, laptop battery and inverter.

Rufus sorting out our hose pipe

We spent nearly week here doing more swanning around. I managed to get Rufus and Anya out for a few walks; a new parenting regime. If they walk and get involved in activities then they get to go on screens later. It’s working by the way, but of course there has been a lot of resistance, my patience is being tested somewhat.

“ Her patience is being tested!” says Rufus, upon hearing this.

We also watched the Lord of The Rings trilogy extended version, all 11 hours of it over the week.

After one particularly unpleasant night bashing on the wall we moved over to the marina opposite. Yet another marina which never got finished so it has solid concrete pontoons but no services at all, and it seems to almost be in the middle of no-where. You can walk from there round to Argostoil, but the bridge is being repaired so you have to nip over when the workmen are not there or like Pati hitch a ride on the back of someone’s motor bike!

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

We had two lovely safe, calm nights here and a lovely walk along the beach. Rufus, Anya and I made some beach sculptures, wonder how long they will last?

We headed back to Argolstoli to fill up with water and shop. We really stocked up and spent a staggering 170 euros in the supermarket. Rufus and Anya pushed it all home in two trolleys which they then had to take back. They also did the green grocery shopping on their own, so my cunning plan to get them off the boat and walking is working.

 We returned that night to the marina to say goodbye to Yves and Pati, who are staying put for now hoping that their daughter will be able to visit. We have decided that since, as usual, the weather is too bad to head across to Italy we will tootle around the island for a change of scene.

 We’re now in Fiskardo, a beautiful old town in the north of the island, the Rough Guide to Greece describes it as “where the well keeled yachties come”. It’s the upmarket resort of Cephalonia, probably because it was the only place to survive the 1953 earthquake which devastated these Islands. All the old buildings remain and it is a charming little port.

If we get stuck here we’ve decided to watch all the Star Wars Films!

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Posted in Greece, Mairi | 6 Comments

Easter Activities Aboard

Blown eggs being painted

Spot the teen boy design!

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Is an Easter Egg hunt possible on a boat? Answer yes.

 

Hunt in full swing

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

The results.

For more thoughts on Easter see my blog post.

 

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Posted in Uncategorized | 6 Comments

Zakynthos

Rufus just decribed it thus:

” Very nice, didn’t see it, good wifi” (do teens know what’s going on?)

I’ll try to elaborate a little.

We arrived in Zakynthos town only to be met by the local rogue, unbeknown to us he masquerades as the port authority, with forms to fill in and even gave us a receipt. He fleeced us for 40 euros for harbour fee, water and electricity. We discovered later that the port police are trying to do something about him, because it gives them a such a bad reputation. Our advice is that whoever approaches you there, say you will be going to the port police office and refuse to pay till then.

Rufus had time to bake up another stunning cake, yum.

Not unsurprisingly we didn’t have to pay the port police anything for the rest of our stay which ended up being about 6 days. During that time we wandered around a little, did lots of skyping with the free wifi, went out for a lovely lunch and generally enjoyed swanning around in the sunny weather. We even got the hammock out; I don’t know how sailors of old managed in those, on a rough passage. A gentle sway is fine but I started to feel sea-sick when it rocked around too much.

 

 

 

 

 

I found time to felt, which I loved.

We did try to leave after a few days but had to turn back due to bad weather. Another case of reality and forecast mismatch!

This turned out to be very fortunate as the following day our French friends Yves and Pati turned up on their boat Argo. We spent a lovely evening together catching up on what we had all been up to.

The next morning they decided to head off to Argostoli on Cephalonia while we chugged up to the north of Zakynthos to visit a little port called Ay Nikolias. It was delightful, calm, quiet with incredibly crystal clear water. Just as well as Anya managed to drop a ring over the side and hero Daddy dived down and retrieved it for her.

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Posted in Greece, Mairi | 2 Comments

Knee Again

Having set off from Kalamata in high spirits, glad to be on the move and mentally preparing for our the crossing to come ( Greece to Italy), we now find ourselves stopped not by the weather but by Ashley’s knee.

Some bed rest and doing virtually nothing is helping and he has managed to hobble to the interent cafe, so things may not be as dire as we first suspected.

Conveniently the weather is not good enough to contemplate a safe crossing at the moment anyway.

Since leaving Kalamata the weather has, on the whole, been much improved; hot and sunny even when windy. We’ve dug out shorts and swimming gear and even donned suncream on a few occasions.

From Kalamata we headed of to Pilos in the Bay of Navarino where the famous sea battle took place. The British , French and Russians dramatically defeated the Turks. It was not a strategic masterpiece to have all your navy in one place, but they did, in came the opposition and kaboom, no more navy.

Leaving Navarino Bay

Next stop Katakolo, where all the cruise ships dock to disgorge their thousands of passengers onto trains to visit Olympia. Thankfully for us the first cruise ship was not due in till the day after we left. From April till October they are expecting over 400. One local told us that they have been known to have up to six cruise liners in one day.

Being the boat on the town quay meant our presence was noted. One guy came to say he had showers we could use, and I did the next morning. He seemed slightly confused and repeated “now?” a couple of times. I soon knew why, what promised to be a lovely hot shower abruptly changed to freezing cold and very fast wash down. I hadn’t realised that the water is all heated by solar and the sensible time to shower is in the afternoon once the water has had time to heat up.

The next day Ashley and kids set of for an over-night trip to see Olympia, Apollo’s temple and some mountain villages. I opted for time alone at home.

Out for Lunch in Katakolo

I had a fantastic time doing very little, took myself out for lunch and off for a lovely walk, and had an interesting encounter with an old Greek man. He had sailed from Katakolo to Norway in the 70′s as a young man, all alone, in a boat our size and was delighted to come aboard and reminisce.

Once reunited we set off for Zankynthos, first stop the turtle beaches in the south. We anchored overnight and I for one revelled in the peace, quiet, calm, lack of people, lights and noise.

Turtle beach

The next morning as the rest of the crew snoozed I rowed ashore ( thank you Rufus and Anya for blowing it up and later bringing it aboard again and deflating it). I did my mediation and chanting and then had a wee dance with myself too. I think my spirit soared with the freedom.

Shortly afterwards a couple of women wandered along the beach with a net. It turned out they are part of the team who patrol the beaches to keep them clean and safe for the turtles. According to them, and at odds with what our pilot book says, we should not have anchored overnight. They were cool about it though as were the crew of the patrol boat who came along later.

Before setting off we had our first off-the-boat swim, freezing but refreshing.

 

 

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Posted in Greece, Mairi | 2 Comments

We Love the Peloponnese

Wild tortoise!

Olive groves and wild flowers galore

 

It was so fantastic that a planned one night away turned into three!

Don’t ask about changes of clothes; we yachties can manage those sort of things with ease!

Photos say it all hopefully:

Snowy mountain pass

Snow covered mountain village

 

 

 

 

 

 

Breakfast room, an old olive oil mill

The main street in Monemvasia

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Monemvasia

Hopeful sparrows in cafe in Monemvasia

 

 

 

 

Rufus in Mystras

 

Mystras, Byzantine village town under restoration

 

 

Those Byzantines knew where to build for a view

Restored church in Mystras

Rufus in Mystras

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Posted in Greece, Mairi | 7 Comments